NEGROS ORIENTAL, PHILPPINES

There is an urge to discover more once starts to explore Negros Oriental. As the fourth largest island in the Phillipines, the province contains a variety of treasures including one of the country's richest marine reserves and the only Protestant university in the Philippines.
A certain laid back charm can be experienced in the province. Somehow, its streets are quieter and in impulse to seek an adventure or take a relaxing break in the country side is always welcomed by its diversed destinations.
Positioned in the southeastern part of Visayas, It derived its name from the Spanish settlers who saw dark-skinned native when they came into their land. Today, Negros Oriental is a destination of preserved magnificent locations and is a hub for continues excellence in the field of arts and education.

WAVES,GOLD,PINEAPPLES

THREE THINGS are popular in Camarines Norte-the surf,the pineapples, and the gold.

Daet is a good eight hours or so away from Manila by land. Or you could take the 45-minute plane ride to Naga if you're in a hurry, and drive to Daet for two hours.

The pineapples are called formosa, and are smaller than your usuall Hawaian Queen Breed. But they lack in size they make up for sweetness and crispness. Just outside of Daet, in the municipality of Jose Panginaban is a cooperative center that processes pineapples into refreshing juices, tarts, pies,candies, and assortment of delicacies. Not too far is a barangay center that produces cloth made from the fiber of pineapples leaves, which appends the small community's income through the help of the local branch of the department of Trade and Industry. they also make excellent handmade paper from this fiber.

As expected, Daet celebrates the fruit via the pinyasan (June 15-24), an annual pineapple festival marked by street dancing, floats, beauty pageants, and Agri-trade fairs, just to name a few. Then there's the town of Paracale, renowned for being a frontier for golg filigrees. Said one resident: "Even at an early age, we were trained to pan for gold, because it was everywhere. You could dig a deep hole in the sides of the street and find gold. Even inside the houses, beneath the floors." Do not get the impresion, however, that Paracale resembles Ayala Alabang or Forbes Park- It remains very much a typical provincial town with a handful of goldsmith shops (same of them also deal with silver, as they had to adjust to weakenning purchasing powers) scattered here and there. They even export to Switzerland and other Europian countries.

Outside Daet, there are several places you can visits to cool off. Just in the nearby town of San Vicente is the villa Mintella Resort, where you can deep in an unbelievably sparkling clean river, with same picnic huts in the side. But if you wnat to take the road less traveled-or, better yet, the pool less swam in-you might want to rough it up to the waterfalls in Mananap, certainly not an average tourist's trek. One has to tortuously traverse not only a dense forest, but also a couple of kilometers of sloping mountainside.

Oh, this Bicol, and we almost failed to mention the sweet pill nuts. dont forget to grab a bag along the way.

BEACH ART

True to each surf culture, Bagasbas Beach in Daet,Camarines Norte hosts another cool event-the first Bagasbas Eco-arts Festivals. LOURD de VEYRA hits the waves
MORE THAN five months,ago, Joaquin Palencia was standing on the Bagasbas beachfront, a surfer's haven in Daet, Camarines norte in the Bicol.Palencia has lived in this place all his life,but the realization came like sudden flash of enlightment; this place is absolutely beautiful.
Even before Palencia's realization of his hometown's natural beauty,
Daet has been attracting some following ,already--some of the local surfer' have competed in international competition.Daet's are said to be conducive for elementary -surfers, as they roll only in gentle, relatively manageable mid-size heights.
Lining the periphery of Bagasbas beach are inns, bars, restaurants, and even a surfer-themed pizza house with decent offerings ,. local residents tend to gravitate to the beach in the mornings, when the sun is gentle, or just hang around the breakwater with some snacks during weekends,enjoying the breeze and the view. You can bring your own surfboard or you can bring or rent one.
It is hard to ignore daet's postcard-pretty sunrises,the wide beach with relentless waves rolling in from the pacific. Palencia's thought it a pity to have such panorama remain hidden from the world.But Palencia is not a tour promoter ; he's an artist-a painter and sculptor with modern sensibilities who perennially holds shows in some of the leading galleries in manila.
To promote Daet, Palencia thought of holding the First Bagasbas Eco-Arts Festivals, held last April 25-28 in this Southern Luzon surfing mecca.While we usually think of art festivals was cocktails-and-neckties-affairs inside museum and galleries,this event, sponsored by the Our Lady of Lourdes College Foundation ,was purely a beach affair, but without the excess of Boracay.
The idea: take five artist to Daet, let them interact with the rural communities,and, with materials only available in the area, erect installation pieces along the strecth of Bagasbas Beach. The concept behind it is to use an art and culture to promote ecological consciousness.
Six renowned installation artist were brought in-Juan Alfredo Aquilizan, Henri Cainglis,Edille Paras,Hermi Santos,Ronaldo Ruiz, and the australian Tony Twigg. Each one assigned in a barangay with volunteer assistants, who may have pick up a thing or two about art-making along the way.(Note: most of these people were farmers and fisherfolks).
The installation took only a couple of days to complete. As the rule allows only the use of materials sourced from the communities themselves, large strips and bundles of bamboo and other indigenious items were hauled to the beach.Indeed, installation are usually a response to a given space at a given time, the intuitive arrangement of of objects offering a new experience for the viewer. Many of these townsfolks sacrified several days' worth of income from fishing just to work on the pieces. Young painter and installation artist RONALDO RUIZ, in cooperation with Barangay Bagasbas, presented an assembly of ladders entitled "Agumumuc". Tony Twigg with wife Geena stuck bamboo poles into the sand, amd inserted into the groves objects like sardine cans, rhum bottles, and other everyday things---it was called "We are Reminded of Ourselves by What We Leave Behind". Barngay Dagodagotan assisted artist Henri Cainglet in constructings a paper mache boat sailing over slats of bamboo and coconut husks.

Pampanga-based installation arist Eddille Paras and Barangay Lag-on paid homage to the gods of generosity and sustenance with a bundle fruits contained inside a pyramidic frame. A teepee-like structure laden with palay and other household ornaments was offered by Hermisanto and Barangay Taba Taba. The multi-awarded Alfredo Aquilizan--recipient of the most Outstanding Visual Artist Award in the 2000 International Awards for the Arts---impaled discarded shoes and slippers on a forest of bamboo sticks, making them look like they were makng their way to the sea.

The opening festivties were attended by local residents, artists from Manila and as far as Palawan,and several local government officials. There was mabient hegalong ( an indigenous stringed instrument) music and performance art provided by Palawan's Diokno Pasilan, who painted his entire body ghostly white. Ruiz and company also did some performance themselves, parading aroud the beach grbed in seaweed. Palencia said that the barangay volunteers are now looking forward to applying some of the things they learned working on the installations to the ornaments in next year's fiesta. What ever purpose it may have served, one thing is for sure: the folks in Camarines Norte have never seen anything like this before.

PANSUKIAN, SURIGAO DEL NORTE

TROPICAL VILLA OF PANSUKIAN

PANSUKIAN ISLANDS CUISINE FOODS

PANSUKIAN BEACH

PANSUKIAN GARDEN

PANSUKIAN RESORT

Although most known for its impressive surf breaks, the enchanting island of Siargao is also home to a romantic retreat.Hidden amongst a coconut plantation, wooed by a nearby lagoon,and nestled beside an immaculate beach, Pansukian is a hedonistic heaven. The resot has nine cottages, guaranteeing seclusion. A private veranda and hammock further privacy from prying eyes and/ or annoying neighbors. No loud bras, no noisy parties, and no irritating vendors hawking souvenirs. It is for a lack of a 70-foot yatch, a couple's answer to a call for paradise, sounds a little cheesy to you? Believe us, the missus will love it. Pack light. You'll both be spending your honeymoon in some state of undress.

Sex is a great aerobic workout.But surely at some point you'll want to see the rest of the island, right?Leave your bedroom long enough to let housekeeping wash those (rumpled) stained sheets and explore. You need to have some photos that you can show when you get home.

Surfing and Scuba-Diving : These are activities not for the faint of heart. If you decide to skip the adrenalinerush, check out.......

Island hoping: Hire an outrigger boat and explore the sorroundings islands. Snorkel in water so clear you'll think it's a glass. If you want to be cherry,erm, romantic, hold hands while you're at it. Then sit down to a picnic-for-two, then rest up then,If you're still feeling outdoorsy,take a short climb to the top of the hill for a photo-op view.

Kayaking: Remember that beach commercial from way back when? Now you can do that, too. Only you'll be much cooler because you get to do it through a mangrove forest that leads to a saltwater lake.

Look for crocodiles: The Del Carmen swamps are home to Steve Irwin's favorite beast.If you're lucky you'll spot some basking in the sun. Remmber not ot make references about your new mother-in-law. There will be time enough for that once the honeymoon is over.

Shell collecting: Self explanatory. Walk along the beach, collect shells.Give them as souvenirs if you're too cheap to buy pasalubong.

Deep sea flashing: Fishing in Siargao means facing off against sailfish, jacks and yellow fin tuna.A manly activity that should boost your testo-sterone levels afer all that shell collecting. most, if not all, of these activities can be scheduled through Pansukian resort

IF YOU WANT EXTRA HOT The more adventurous honeymooner may want to attempt doing the deed al fresco. Although the clarity of the ocean doesn't provide much cover, the creative will find ways to sneak a little action while caving, climbing, oreven picknicking on the beach. Plus, the warm waters of Siargao island are perfect for that 'midnight swim."

SAGADA & BANAUE

BANAUE DWARFED

BATAD FALLS

BANAUE RICE TERRACES

WHAT TO SEE: Situated way up in the cool highlands of Central Luzon,the towns of Sagada and Banaue are famous for their fog-covered mountains (hundred of them), majestic rice terraces, and a proud group of a native peoples known as the "Igorots ".Not to be missed: The Banaue Viewpoint, a 10- minute tricycle ride from the town proper, packs the most popular and most accessible view of the terraces. The villages of Batad and Banga-an offer up-close-and personal encounters with the land and its people, but you'll have to trek quite a bit to get there. A few hours away in Sagada with its own set of terraces, pine forests and caves to explore. Here one will also find the studio where Spanish-Filipino photographer Eduardo Masferre pioneered the photo documentsation of the mountain tribes.

SIQUIJOR

LARENA SANDUGAN MANGROVE OF SIQUIJOR

SIQUIJOR BEACH

CAMBUGAHAY FALLS IN SIQUIJOR

WHAT TO SEE: An isolated,somewhat mystical island in the Southern Visayas Region,Sequijor's charm lies it its untainted rural character,There's also its so-called witch docyors . Not to be missed: The Cathedral of St. Isidore Labrador in the town of Lazi features hardwood floors and an ancient facade of coral rock. From here the three-tired Cambugahay Falls is just a short habal-habal scooter ride away. Catch some R&R amidst the white sand and torquoise waters of the San Juan municipality,or go spelunking in the cavernous Cantabon Cave. And the witches? You'll find them in the mountain village of San Antonio, Pedro Tumapon and Juan Ponce, two of the island's more popular mystics,will gladly conjure an anting-anting amulet or an a lumay love spell (among many others,of course) for a minimal donation.There's also Enrique Bonatsita in the town of Karena, famous for his bolo-bolo---a method of healing that is reportedly as baffling as it is potent.

VIGAN

Vigan Church

TIME WALK--The cobbled street of M.Crisologo in Vigan

WHAT TO SEE? Centuries-old house , hosre-drawn calesas, and good view of life in colonial-era Philippines are what make Vigan, the capital of Ilocos Sur , a worthwhile visit . Not to be missed: cobbled street M. Crisologo and Syquia homes, have been converted into museums. Not far from here is the Viagan Cathedral with its European-Chinese "earthquake baroque" architecture, and Plaza Burgos with its food hawkers selling crunchy, deep-fried okoy and emapanada snacks. Board a tricycle and head for the a handful of factories churning out traditional handmade burnay jars, or hit the the shops for a yard or two of abel iloko --oft, versatile hand-woven fabric seen in fashion shows worldwide.WHERE TO SAY: Accommodations are mostly Hotel and Gordion Inn.Grandpa's Hotel ofers both airconditoned and cheaper non-airconditioned rooms , while the Arzobisbado Socio-Pastrol center provides dorm-type lodging upon reservation..

CAMIGUIN

Water High WHAT TO SEE? Pristine shorelines, secluded waterfalls, therapeutic mountain springs and seven active volcanoes make up this small, 229- square-kilometer island off the coast of Misamis Oriental. Not to be missed: White Island, a bare chunk of sand and crushed coral off the Agohay coast, is a favorite swimming spot. Katibawasan Falls near the town of Mambajao is another frequent tourist hangout , its water cascading 250- feet down into a misty rock pool. The slopes of Camiguin's most famous landmark, Mr. Hibok-Hibok , attracts mountaineers from all over the country,many of whom camp out at the grounds near the Ardent Hot Springs. Get a taste of the provincial lifestyle-- a trait that foriegners consider to be the island's bes attraction. WHERE TO SAY: Camiguin host a number of Department of Tourism- accredited establishments, mostly in and around Mambajao . Bahay Bakasyunan ssa Camiguin, Paras Beach and Caves Beach Resort all good amenities at reasonable prices....

BANTAYAN

Bantayan Island's Virgin

WHAT TO SEE? Another Boracay in the making , Bantayan Island off the northern coast of Cebu also has white sand beaches and the same party island flair - albeit on a decidedly smaller and quieter scale . Not to be missed: The town of Santa Fe is where the action is ,with most of the island's bars and resort lacated here. Visit the old church near the Bantayan town market for a glimpse of its circa 1800s facade, and then grab a kilo or two of the island' s famous dreid fish.Wanna get away from it all?There's always Hilantagan , a private island just a half-hour boat ride away--you can get a day pass for a few (negligible) pesos , or buy the whole thing for a rumored US$7million WHERE TO SAY: Ogtong Cave Resort boasts picturesque seaside views and an undergruond cave pool, while Kota Beach and Marlin Beach Resort offer sun, sand surf right outside the cottage doors . Budyong Beach and Sugar Beach cater mostly to backpackers. Theres also a half-dozen other to choose from.

NORTHERN PALAWAN (EL NIDO AND CORON)

PALAWAN BEACH VIEW

El Nido Palawan cottages

PALAWAN LAKE

WHAT TO SEE:
The El Nido and Coron islands form part of a mine archipelago off Palawan's Northern tip,and are packed with white sand beaches, limestone cliffs, and damn good diving opportunities. Not to be missed: Check out the dozen underwater shipwrecks off Coron Bay. There's 24 of them all Japanese warships sunk during WWll, but so far only half have been located. Topsiders, on the other hand, should head for the area's countless lagoons for kayaking and snorkeling sessions amidst cool, clear water and towering rock walls.
We recommend Coron's Barracuda Lake, and the Cadlao Nature Trail in El Nido. For the ultimate outdoor challenge, try climbing those vertical limestone cliffs (there's a popular route behind the the El Nido town proper).

WHERE TO STAY:
Coron's Club Paradise Resort and El Nido's Lagen and Miniloc Resorts are attractions themselves with thier luxurious amenities and accomodations in the middle-range department, while budger inns and pensions houses can be found in the El Nido and Coron town centers.

GREAT ESCAPES

BORACAY SANDS DUNES

BORACAY BLUE SEA

BORACAY WHITE SANDS

PALAWAN CLIFF

As a last hurrah this summer, where will you go?

BORACAY
WHAT TO SEE: Boracay is the country's top tourist attraction with its part provincial, part cosmopolitan, bacchanalian beach life,all of it built around "West Coast"- a four-kilometer-long srip pof powdery shoreline. Not to be missed: Aside from the usual beach activities, there's the island's nightlife to speak of. Newer joints like Hey Jude and Pier one vie for attention along with old favorites such as Bazzura and Summer Place Sex Shooter Bar. Match your wits (and your alcohol tolerance) against Cocomangas'" 15 and still standing..." fifteen potent alcoholic shots- survive it and earn your place in a hall of fame. Food tripping is a bona fide Boracay activity, with an endless variety of cuisines to choose from; try the fresh fruits shakes at jonah's the spanish paella at Dos Mestizos, and the Italian pizza at La Cappanina.
Wher to stay: There are literally hundreds of resorts here for all wallet size. Nami Resort has pretty villas nestled on the cliffs above Diniwid Beach (you take a scenic glass elevator to get there). Not far from this is friday's one of the higher class hotels around.Sun Village at the south end of the West Coasts has quaint cottages uphill and clean, affordable rooms at the beachfront.

weird & wonderful palawan

PALAWAN RED BTTERFLY

PALAWAN LAKE

PALAWAN ISLAND

PALAWAN HANGIN BRIDGE

THE 51-YEAR-OLD VENDOR, with a smart looking Esprit T-shirt and a broad, toothygrin was eager to show off the elaborately decorated wooden rulerhe had for sale.With a flick of his wrist,he revealed that it is actually a knife-likeletter opener.
"You can take this anywhere and people won't even know," he says cheerfully,apparently summoning his best sales pitch.A closer looks reveals that the jovial vendor of sharp objects has a small piece of orange cloth pinned to his shirt, signifying that he is an inmate at the Iwahig Penal Colony in Palawan,Philippines.
Serving a lifetime homicide and robbery, the prisoner is one of more than a thousand inmates who wonder freely around the unusual 212-square-kilometer penal colony.The local tourism department considers it a "must-see" spot for visitors.
Few distinations feature a prison as one of their top tourist sites, but Palawan, 1.5-million-hectare island between Luzon and Borneo prides itself in being a little bit different. It is home to the oldest known remains of ancient Filipinos and a bizarre underground river that snakes a mile into the earth. The island is also host to same of the philippines' most exclusive beach resorts.Palawan can be a challenge to visit.It takes an eight-10-hour drive to get from the southern capital city of Puerto Princesa to the pristine beaches of the north. As a result,the quickest way to get from the south to the north is to fly back to manila and take a connecting flight. Usually, travellers to Palawan decide to go either south or north during a single visit.
Going South. If travellers decide to go the southern route to Puerto Princesa from Manila, they'll a quiet,squeaky-clean town. Palawans capital has repeatedly been named the country's "cleanest and greenest" city.Its colorful mayor has been known to be fined by his own police force when he is caught tossing cigarette butts on the sidewalk.
In addition to the interesting Iwahig prison about 30 minutes outside of town,there is also an impressive crocodile farm run by a director who is determined to salvage the reputation of the gargantuan reptiles. In the Philppines, corrupt politicians and cops are called crocodiles.
"Crocodiles are victims of slander and libel," says Gerardo Ortega, director of the Crocodile Farming Institute. Crocodiles only eat twice a weelk at three percent of their body weight.The human Crocodiles are insatiable, getting wealth left and right, more than they can consume."
About five hours south of Puerto Princesa ,the small town of Quezon serves as a jump-off point for the Tabon Caves, where remnants of Filipino settlers dating to 22,000 B.C. have been found . The caves aren't that impressive, since there is nothing left in them, but there is a small museum in town that puts he archaeological importance of the area into context.
By far the most spectacular place in Palawan is the St. Paul Underground River. A car can be chartered for about US$75 roun-trip, or you can take the package mini=busses for the four- hour ride. The bumpy ride is followed by a two kilometer walk throug the jungle. The trip is rigorous but its worth it.
Travellers, for a small fee,, ride dugout canoes with a gas lamp attached deep into winding underground cave. The labyrinthine river takes you deeper and deeper, revealing ghostly limestone structures along the way, untill it appears you won't find your way out. after more than an hour, the boat emerges in a beautiful lagoon.It is a strange and memorable experience.
GOING NORTH. For those who want to enjoy the beautiful beaches of northern Palawan, there are direct flights to several small airports in the area. The exclusives resorts, such as Amanpulo,have comfortable private luonges in the Manila airport for passengers waiting to connect to their domestic flight.
One of the top spots in northern Palawan is the El Nido group, which includes the Lagen and Miniloc island resorts. Miniloc is a luxurious version of a traditional Filipino village with tatched roof cottages sitting over the water.Lagen's cottages feature antique furnishing and area set alongside the forest. Both of the El Nido resorts after world class service in a remote, pristine
location.They offer buffet meals, swimming pools and water sports. Also in northern Palawan is Amanpulo, na exclusive resort on the 89-hectare private island of Pamalica, in the Cuyo islands group.The island is sorrounded by white sand beaches and coral reef.The plush facility has a library, playground and a variety of watersports. A personal club car is provided to each guest to get around the island. Club Noah, in taytay, north of Puerto Princesa, has 40 rooms and sits on a cave. It has four restaurants and a variety of water spots.
In Caron, the popular Club Paradise resort has 60 rooms, a swimming pool and a wildlife center. The resort also can arrange tours to nearby Calauit Island where former president Ferdinand Marcos tried to establish an African wildlife sanctuary0.

A LUI RESTAURANT

is quite inconpicious so that if you are nodding off, you might just miss the small sign on Rizal Avenue,the city's major food lane.ON this weekend night, thre place is packed, mostly with Europian divers transiting to nearby island. The "No Shoe/Slipper Policy" is a delightful idea. The foreigners seem comfortable with the creaky bamboo floor, and I,for one, love it brings back tacltle memories o barefoot summer vacations at my grandparents "bahay kubo" (nipa hut) in Quezon province.

Louie Olivia ,the restaurant's chef-owner,decorates the sawali( matted bamboo) walls with folk art and curios from his Asian and Europian trips. The thing we like most among his original creations, next to the buri hat lamps , is the bamboo poles cut and shaped like giant panpipes strewn across the windows as a curtain; with a light breeze, it also works as a windchime.The cupboards hold rows of Tagbanua and Palawan (two of the province's indigenous tribes) rice basket.

Theres no set manu and diners are treated to a four-course signature meal pof te fresh catch. Our lapu-lapu(grouper) is served as pan-fried fish steaks marinated in soys sauce and palm vinegar,and as chunks with a generous helping of pineapple sauce .Our favorite though is the fried prawns, made extra sweet and creamy by Louie.The desserts of fresh tropical fruits topped with a large banana is served in halved fresh coconut.

After dinner, we drop by Kamarikutan , a cafe and gallery right across the Puerto Princesa airport. At night, with its gallery lights and big geometric and animal and shaped paper lamps all lit up, Kamarikutan ia a cross between an enigmatic kalambanwa, the longg communal house of the Tagbanuas and Ifugao but hut on steriods.Simply put,its bahay kubo half the of a basketball gym and fashioned from coco lumber,bamboo,cogon and rocks. Its owner, artrist -curator dinggot CondePrieto, added a small waterfall, koi pond, a bamboo, garden, a souvenir shop , a coffe machine , a vegetarian menu ,and delicious space for art exhibits.

In April, Kamarikutan (which means wilderness in Cuyunin, a Palawan indiginous dialect) opens up dapay, a Cordillera stone structure for trilbal council meeting,to participants of the much-awited annual Kamarikutan Pagdiwata Arts Festival . The Pagdiwata is a workshop of mixed visual arts and crafts including theater and music that culminates in a grand exhibit or performance.Now on its fifth year Dinggot offers drawing, basic photograhpy, cerative wrting , batik and paper -making, henna tattooing, tie-dyeing, and drumming. As of this writing, the Printmakers Association of the Philippines , the Tambuli Jams O Boracay , and ethic mucic artist Joey Ayala have confirmed thier participation in the event.

As a coffe place, Kamarikutan whips up Starbucks in every grain,offering blends from Arabica to Turkist Spicy at 32 pesos per mug .If the list leaves you undecided, then try Kamarikutan Blend , a wonderful secret mix of five beans.

Our search for the definfitive gastronomical adventure in Palawan ends in Kinabuchs Grill

and Bar, a popular beer and billiards palce amidst palm trees and an poen space.It takes a minute before I finally psyched up myelf to put the seven-inch long tamilok or wormwood in my mouth ,but just a fraction of a second to swallow it. Part owner Caesar Yuipcos story on how the wormwood is harvest - from decaying driftwood o fmangrove trees - really helped

Tamilok is often served alive or immmersed in vinegar, kinilaw -style .It has the fresh clean taste of oyster but feels about five times slimier because of its shape. Its a popular household delicacy here yet is only commercially available in Kinabuchs. A small plateful cost 90 pesos but dont worry , you can share - you will share.

The overlooking Rancho Sta. Monica , the rejuvenating Butterly Garden, the innovative Rurungan as Tubod (the weaving showroom i n Puerto Princesa ), and thrilling Crocodile Farm (otherwise , known as Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center) are interesting but one of the city tours highligths that truly stands out is the Viet Village , home to hundreds of Vietnamese asylum seekers who had fled Commmunist Vietnam. Established in 1989 through the assistance of the Catholic Bishops Conference of the Philippines and other Vietnam communities around the world , Viet Village is model community that practices waste management and organic farming. The is probably one of the few places in the Philippines where you can find a Catholic chapel, a Buddhist temple , a Christian Evangelical Chapel, and the Vietnamese CaoDai ancestral temple in a 155-house community. Dont leave without trying Pho Bo (beef noodle soup),with unforgettable layers of sweet and spicy taste, and Sinh to Ca Phe , the cappuccino in crushed ice. Take home one of those crunchy dried jackfruit slices , a healthy Vietnamese snack, with you from the nearby grocery .

If you are looking for dining with a terrific seascape view, then include Badjao Seafront Resraurant in your must- sees. Its one of kind because you wont see another restaurant built amidst a mangrove forest anywhere in the country after the Environment Department recently passed an ordinance prohibiting one. On our last day in the city, Iggy Palaez Hotel Fleuris sales manager , snatches u from our souvenir shopping spree , hurriedly herds us to uor van, and drives like mad to make sure we catch the picturesque sunset in Badjao.

His timing is perfect. The sun colored the sky orange fading into blue and is casting dark, Tim Burtonesque shadows on the trees. The bay is dotted with light coming from the boats in nearby port.Looking forward to a tasteful dinner of sushi at the Hotel Fleuris, we only have mango juice , but the spendlid view has made our visit memorable. I guess the cast and crew of the James Bond flick Tommorow Never Dies, who capped a shooting six years ago, would agree.

FOR FEW FLICKERS who have been to Napsan, this small village of 1,000 households facing the South China Sea is "the end of the world" or their world- no Internet,no cable TV, no cellphone signal. Non-government organization, Disadvantaged, Depressed and uUnderserved. The reason lies in its Isolation- the few jeepneys that ply its route are crippled with repair costs each trip, It's no surprise: On the way here, we crossed three to four dried streams come, and the wide ankle-deep Montible River. When yhe rains come, the road turns into streams of muck and the river a monster.

But labels can be decieving; Up close, Napsan, with its flourishing vegetation including mangoes, cashews, bananas, jackfruits and soursoaps that line the road, is a tropical Eden for backpackers and nature-lovers. Its long immaculate beach, with fine sand and big swells, is virtually tourist- free. And the people are warm and friendly. We pass by bunch of kids immersed in a big basin of water and they can't stop waving.

Now, under Hotel Fleuris's management, the Kiao Sea Lodge is hoped to pull local and foreign tourist into Napsan, and consequently catch the local government's attention when it opens this summer with 10 refurbished cogon cottages starting from 450 pesos a night. Iggy plans to offer Napsan as an optional trip for Hotel Fleuris guest who may find the Tubbataha Reef too distant and Dos Palmas too polished.

We arrived in kiao before sundown, and meet Butch Chase, the famous national motocross champion of the late "70s. Butch, who was born from a Russian couple based in the Philippines, speaks fluent Tagalog-whic can be a bit disorienting- and supervises the resort's renovation. He is helped by Rudy, his Tagbanua guide, who can lead you to an uncharted waterfall (about a day's hike), or to Sanke Island (not in the one in Honda Bay), which is, you guessed it, a nesting ground for sea snakes.

This guy Rudy is unflingchingly tough but there is nothing he fears more that a lowly land mammal, the small pig-like Pantot (very near Tagalog word for stinky,"bantot") whose foul odor you can smell even from a hundred meters away. At close range, the smell can knock a dog down or render a man temporarily immobile. One of Rudy's tribe'smen got sprayed, Rudy tells, and he syank for weeks even amid frequent detergent washing.

Rudy, whose Tagbanua name, "Bulundong", means rainbow, can dazzle you with colorful stories, marked with demonstration of how to catch an octupos, party a shark attack, or swim with a giant stingray, among others. If you have bonded with him enough,he may invite you to a pagdiwata, a long and elaborate Tagbanua ritual performed to attract deities led by his babaylan (mediator) father.

We choose to sleep early to catch Napsan under a different light and to give Arlene's aching lower back a rest. The next morning, before breakfast,I stroll with a painfully quiet Arlene along the beach,which I discover to be not only long but also wide,spanning more than three volleyball nets.We try to reach the edge of the beach where Snake Island can be seen but get tired halfway through.

On the ay back to our cottage to pack, I show Arlene what i had discover yesterday: carpets of wild white flowers that seem to spring nowhere. This seems to perk her up as she recalls the pearl necklaces and earrings-very good bargain she missed buying from the Muslim vendor in Hotel Fleuris.

We have been to the rough edge of Puerto Princesa and survived- all three of us. And its enough. There's nothing more to ask for.

PALAWAN BLEND

At A SPEED OF LESS THAN 20 KPH I can still feel the bumps. Yet I forget my discomfort every time the landscape changes,which is often. Half an hour ago we passed a thick mangrove purportedly infested with the crocodiles. Right now, web are in the middle of a lush rainforest,denser than Subic's,with monkeys that stare at us with the curious eyes before dissapearing into the foliage.

Palawan, the fluke- shaped island located southwest of the Philppines, is known as the country's last ecological frontier.It has more protected areas tha any other province in the Philppines.Thes include Calauit Wildlife Sanctuary in the northern Calamianes Islands, El Nido Marine Reserve, Tubbatha Reef in Sulu Sea, ST. Paul Subterranean National Park, and Ursulas Island. It is home to 232 endemic species of wildlife including the Talking Myna (Tiyaw).the Palawan Hornbill (Talusi).the Palawan Peacock Pheasant (Tandikan),the Porcupine (Durian), the scaly Anteater (Balintong), the Deer (Pilandok).Much of the national and local government's efforts is focused on keeping the environment pristine. In 1967, the entire province was declared a Fish and Wildlife Sanctuary; in 1993, commercial logging was totally banned. Today in its provincial capital city, littering is penalized heavily.
for Arlene and I, the name Palawan conjures magical in images. Out first trip together was to Club Noah Isabelle in Apulit Island, Northern Palawan Here, we woke up to the hoarse croaks of egrets, had barbeque lucnh oa stretch of white sand accented by an enchanting siamese acacia tree, and enjoyed cocktails inside a secret cave with candles and the notes from an acoustic guitar. Sky was the limit that night- or was it? The romantic chamber opened up to the stars. In between meals, we either dove or snorkeled in the clear water-just a short wade from our native cabana on stilts- to see, touch, or feed schools of snappers, groupers,butterflyfishes,wrasses and damselfishes below, Fifteen minutes into our introductory dive,we saw a rare encounter , an adult hawksbill turtle (Pawikan) foraging the surface for sea grass. In our excitement, we kept on flashing flashing the "OK" hand sign to each other. From the backseat,I peer into the side mirror and see Arlene sleeping in front. I half wish we were back in the idyllic poolside of Hotel Fleuris. but we asked for this- to see the other faces of Palawan, the country's largest province covering 1,768 millions hectares.

PALAKBAYAN GENERAL SANTOS

Known as the Philippines' shinning star of the south, General Santos City is the unexplored wonder of the mindanao , graced with fertile soil,bountiful seas and a rich heritage all shaped by incredible coastlines,lakes and sprawling farms. Be awed by the glant tuna fish brought to its ports.

The city colors come from each abundant harvest of pineapples, bananas, watermelons,mangoes and every other tropical fruit that will fill your bowl to the brim. Add to that the fascinating cultural heritage of the T'boli and Blaan peoples who have lived for thousands years, and your're assured of a tour that will fill your soul as well as your belly.

General Santos is also one of the Philippines' last diving frotiers. Be one of the few who could claim to be the first to do an exploration dive of the Sarangani Bay.

Enjoy breakfast at the tropicana Resort after a visit to the international Fish Port and then follow the thread that leads to the finest batik cloth in the public market. Afterwards more flashes of color and mesmerizing scents and blossoming designs at the Mirabueno Orchid Farm.

Also you could make a detour to the countryside to visits the fisherman's Village Sapu Glan then a picnic and a swim at the captivating Gumasa beach. Otherwise, roll up your pants and your sleeves for a stroll at the Dole Philppine Plantation, the Kablon Fruit Farm and the Asparagus Plantation Mariano Garden.
You get to bring home a part of the produce, too, after a quick run around the Tupi Fruit Market.

PALAWAN NATURE EXPERCIENCE

So much has been said about Palawan. Those who have seen the wonders of what is considered to be the Philippines last nature frontier cant help but marvel at the island's wealth of natural treasures. they would use "picturesque view", fantastic shoreline", fiine-sand beaches" or "fascinating rock formations" in describing the many interesting destinations in Palawan. Enough to send their listeners on a dreamy trail, imagining an enchanting kingdom not so far away. But no superlatives could come close to whats awaits visitors of Palawan's long-unexplored riches. Because the real thing gets even better than a poet's tale or a postcard scene. To appreciate Palawan with your own eyes and to embrace it with all your heat and soul.
Bringing tourist to the very core of the island's God-given bounty is the Palawan Nature Experience or P-A-X. It takes families on a tour of Puerto Princesa's scenic spots and famous city attractions. For P9,999/person PAX packs' em all for a worry-free vacation. It covers 3 days- 2 nights accommodation at The Legend Hotel Palawan, round trip airfare via Air Philippines, airport transfers , all meals, City tour and a nature experience of your choice at the Honda Bay Islands, Underground River, Narra Town or Nagtabon Beach.
In the Honda Bay Island hopping experience , you get to see not just one, but several islands. The exquisite view of the wide expanse of water and the relaxing rhythm of the waves make the boat ride from one island to another a thrill in itself. Things get even more exciting when you visit the Snake Island.Its long stretch of fine white sand shaped liked a snake is something to behold. Activities here include swimming, snorkeling and fish feeding. With its white sandy beach with coral reef nearby, Pandan Island is also an interesting site.A stopover is a perfect time for picnic lunch, picture taking and sight seeing.
The Underground River Adventure showcases the artworks of nature. Magnificant stalactite and stalagmite formations, century-old masterpieces, adorn the recesses of the cavern that runs 8 kms. long. From the serene lagoon situated outside the river's mouth, a paddle fiberglass banca will take you half into the cave and back. A journey into the darkness and stillness of the river reveals why this Palawan jewel is regarded as one of the world's wonders.
A Pax tour package that proves to be a revelation is the Narra Excursion. You will be amazed at how much this town has to offer in terms of its share of tourist attractions. Your itinerary includes a visit to Rasa Island, home to the Philippines cockatoos that could only be found in Palawan. It also provides shelter to 87 other bird species. Its large coral reefs allow snorkeling and diving around the island. Next stop is the Arena Island where turtles can be viewed. From here you proceed to Crystal Paradise, still by boat. This resort, which has a magnifecint view of the sea and abundance of coconut trees , is also known as wine tasting destination in Palawan. They have their own winery that churns out wine in pineapple, banana, and mango flavors. From here, you travel by land to the final stopover, the Estrella Fall where you can take a dip in the cool waters of the river.
A great choice for those who love to swim is the Nagtabon Beach tour. The first glimpse of the beach, its long shore line and powder-fine sand, makes the 1hour and 15 minutes drive all worth it. Accommodation is the at Georg's Place, a small resort with little green cottages that offer the basic necessities. As a side trip, you get to go on a 30-minute boat ride to the chicken island.
All the nature experiences allow you to enjoy Palawan with your family, to have loads of fun and share precious bonding time with one another.Lured by Palawan's mystic? Extend your stay and avail of the PAX special rate of P299 extra night/person for a chance to visit the other destinations.Inclusive in all PAX packages is the City Tour that will take you to the Iwahig Penal Farm, Crocodile Farm and Galeri.
NOw, dont forget to bring home some" pasalubong" from the market like lamayo, dried pusit, green honey,kasoy, as well as, souvenirs like shirts, pearls, gem necklaces and handicrafts. And take with you forever the memory of a wonderful Palawan natural experience.
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